Crime and Clothing Sources

Abelson, Elaine S. When Ladies Go A-Thieving: Middle-Class Shoplifters in the Victorian Department Store. Oxford University Press, 1989.

Arkles, Gabriel. “Correcting Race and Gender: Prison Regulation of Social Hierarchy through Dress.” New York University Law Review, vol. 87, no. 4, 2012.

Ash, Juliet. Dress Behind Bars: Prison Clothing as Criminality. I.B. Tauris, 2010.

Baker, Lynda M. “Undercover as Sex Workers: The Attitudes and Experiences of Female Vice Officers.” Women & Criminal Justice, vol. 16, no. 4, 2007, pp. 25-41.

Bell, Amy. “Crime Scene Photography in England, 1895–1960.” Journal of British Studies, vol. 57, 2018, pp. 53-78.

Bell, Amy Helen. “Bodies in the Bed: English Crime Scene Photographs as Documentary Images.” Crime and the Construction of Forensic Objectivity from 1850, edited by Alison Adam, Palgrave, pp. 17-41.

Bombardini, Silvia. “The Shoplifter’s Clothes: Technologies for a Feminist Practice.” Politics of Patents, August 19, 2020,

Brayson, K. “Of Bodies and Burkinis: Institutional Islamophobia, Islamic Dress, and the Colonial Condition.” Journal of Law and Society, vol. 46, no. 1, 2019, pp. 55-82.

Burman, Barbara, and Ariane Fennetaux. The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives, 1660-1900. Yale University Press, 2019.

Cameron, Mary Owen. Booster and the Snitch: Department Store Shoplifting. New York, Free Press of Glencoe, 1964.

Cecil, Anne. “‘High Fashion Crime Scenes’: Recent Trends in Fashion Imagery, a Legacy of Film Noir.” Film, Fashion & Consumption, vol. 1, no. 3, 2012, pp. 325-340.

Chauvaud, Frédéric. “Le Triomphe de l’empreinte criminalistique (1890-1930).” Empreintes, edited by Yannick Beaubatie, Tulle, Milles Sources, 2004, pp. 81-94.

Chenoune, Farid. “Their Ball: Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period.” Modes Pratiques: Journal of Clothes and Fashion History, January 2018, pp. 115-126.

Clynk, Jennifer, and Sharon Peoples. “All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryna Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection.” Dress History: New Directions in Theory and Practice, edited by Charlotte Nicklas and Annebella Pollen, Bloomsbury, 2015, pp. 50-64.

Craciun, Magdalena, “Fake Brands.” The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: A Reader, edited by Brent Adam Luvaas and Joanne B. Eicher, Bloomsbury, 2019, pp. 374-383.

Craik, Jennifer. Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression. Oxford, Berg, 2005.

Crane, Diana. “Clothing Behavior as Non-verbal Resistance: Marginal Women and Alternative Dress in the Nineteenth Century,” Fashion Theory, vol. 3, no. 2, 1999, pp. 241-268.

Daniels, Douglas Henry. “Los Angeles Zoot: Race ‘Riot,’ the Pachuco, and Black Music Culture.” The Journal of African American History, vol. 87, no. 1, 2002, pp. 98-118.

Faiers, Jonathan. Dressing Dangerously: Dysfunctional Fashion in Film. Yale University Press, 2013.

Faiers, Jonathan. “White Lies and the Tailoring of Evil.” Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance, edited by Jo Turney, Bloomsbury, 2019, pp. 14-22.

Farcy, Jean-Claude, et al., editors. L’enquête judiciaire en Europe au XIXe siècle. Acteurs, imaginaires, pratiques. Paris, Créaphis, 2007.

Finn, Jonathan. “Picturing the Criminal: Photography and Criminality in the Nineteenth Century.” Capturing the Criminal Image: From Mug Shot to Surveillance Society, University of Minnesota Press, 2009, pp. 1-3.

Gunning, Tom, “Making Fashion out of Nothing: The Invisible Criminal.” If Looks Could Kill: Cinema’s Images of Fashion, Crime and Violence, edited by Marketa Uhlirova, Koenig Books, 2008, pp. 22-31.

Hauser, Kitty, “A Garment in the Dock; or, how the FBI Illuminated the Prehistory of a Pair of Denim Jeans,” Journal of Material Culture, vol. 9, no. 3, 2004, pp. 293-313.

Holtz Schramek, Evangeline, and Carolyn Kane. “Opulent Servitude: Shoplifting in a Culture of Material Excess and Systemic Racism.” Fashion Studies, vol. 2, no. 1, 2019,

Kalifa, Dominique. Crime et culture au XIXe siècle. Paris, Perrin, 2005.

Kalifa, Dominique. “Crime Scenes. Criminal Topography and Social Imaginary in Nineteenth Century Paris.” French Historical Studies, vol. 27, no, 1, 2004, pp. 175-194.

Kalifa, Dominique. “Criminal Investigators at the Fin-de-siècle.” Yale French Studies, no. 108, 2005, pp. 36-47.

Kalifa, Dominique. “L’attaque nocturne.” Sociétés & représentations, no. 4, 1997, pp. 121-138.

Kalifa, Dominique. “Les femmes, le crime et l’enquête en France à la fin du XIXe siècle.” Femmes et justice pénale XIXe-XXe siècles, edited by Christine Bard et al., Presses Universitaires de Rennes, 2002, pp. 283-292.

Kalifa, Dominique. Vice, Crime, and Poverty: How the Western Imagination Invented the Underworld. Translated by Susan Emanuel, foreword by Sarah Maza, Columbia University Press, 2013.

Keily, Jackie, and Julia Hoffbrand. The Crime Museum Uncovered: Inside Scotland Yard’s Special Collection. I.B. Tauris, Museum of London, 2015.

Kelly, Katherine Feo. “Performing Prison: Dress, Modernity, and the Radical Suffrage Body,” Fashion Theory, vol. 15, no. 3, 2011, pp. 299-301.

Lemire, Beverly. “The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England.” Journal of Social History, vol. 24, no. 2, 1990, pp. 255-276.

Lezama, Nigel. “Slasher Consciousness: Dandyism As Killer.” Fashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature, edited by Julia Petrov and Gudrun D. Whitehead, Bloomsbury Academic, 2017.

Locard, Edmond. “Dust and its Analysis: An Aid to Criminal Investigation.” The Police Journal: Theory, Practice and Principles, vol. 66, no. 2, 1993, pp. 153-165.

Loytysz, Slawomir, “Tailored to the Times: The Story of Casimir Zeglen’s Silk Bullet-Proof Vest.” Arms & Armour, vol. 11, no. 2, 2014, pp. 164-86.

Lunghi, Carla. “Eccentric Fashions: Prison and Creativity.” International Journal of Fashion Studies, vol. 1, no. 2, 2014, pp. 209-226.

Matthews David, Alison. “First Impressions: Footprints as Forensic Evidence in Crime Fact and Fiction.” Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (UK), vol. 53, no. 1, 2019, pp. 43-66.

Matthews David, Alison. “Sur les pas des criminels: Démarches policières et poursuites judiciaires.” Marche et démarche : Une histoire de la chaussure, exhibition catalogue, Musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris, November 7, 2019–February 23, 2020, pp. 68-75.

Maynard, Margaret. “A Form of Humiliation: Early Transportation Uniforms in Australia.” Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society, vol. 21, no. 1, 1987, pp. 57-66.

McKnight, Alanna. “Fashions From Hell: Jack the Ripper’s Enduring Influence on Dress.” Fashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature, edited by Julia Petrov and  Gudrun D. Whitehead, Bloomsbury Academic, 2017, pp. 121-138.

Meraviglia, Laura. “Counterfeiting, Fashion and the Civil Society.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, vol. 19, no. 3, 2015, pp. 230-248.

Nead, Lynda. “Visual Cultures of the Courtroom: Reflections on History, Law and the Image.” Visual Culture in Britain, vol. 3, no. 2, 2002, pp. 119-41.

Petrov, Julia, and Gudrun D. Whitehead, editors. Fashioning Horror: Dressing to Kill on Screen and in Literature. Bloomsbury Academic, 2017.

Philipps, Sandra, et al., editors. Police Pictures: The Photograph as Evidence, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, 1997.

Pouillard, Véronique. “Design Piracy in the Paris and New York Fashion Industries in the Interwar Years.” The Business History Review, vol. 85, no. 2, 2011, pp. 319-344.

Sadre-Orafai, Stephanie. “Mugshot/Head Shot: Danger, Beauty and the Temporal Politics of Booking Photography.” Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance, edited by Jo Turney, Bloomsbury, 2019, pp. 45-57.

Schmidt, C. Bettina. “Elucider les images des « apaches ». Pratiques, logiques et limites des enquêtes (1900-1914). L’enquête judiciaire en Europe au XIXe siècle. Acteurs, imaginaires, pratiques, edited by Jean-Claude Farcy et al., Paris, Créaphis, 2007, pp. 349-360.

Sears, Clare. Arresting Dress: Cross-Dressing, Law, and Fascination in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco. Duke University Press, 2015.

Segrave, Kerry. The Hatpin Menace: American Women Armed and Fashionable, 1887-1920. McFarland & Company, Inc., 2016.

Sekula, Allan. “The Body and the Archive.” October, vol. 39, 1986, pp. 3-64.

Shover, Neal. “Generative Worlds of White-Collar Crime.” International Handbook of White-Collar and Corporate Crime, edited by Henry N. Portell and Gilbert L. Geis, Springer, 2007, pp. 81-97.

Sutherland, Edwin H. “White-Collar Criminality.” American Sociological Review, vol. 5, no. 1, 1940, pp. 1-12.

Treadwell, James, et al. “Shopocalypse Now: Consumer Culture and the English Riots of 2011.” British Journal of Criminology, vol. 53, no. 1, 2013, pp. 1-17.

Turney, Jo, editor. Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019.

Turney, Jo. “Material Evidence: Sexual Assault, Provocative Clothing and Fashion.” Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance, edited by Jo Turney, Bloomsbury, 2019, pp. 115-128.

Turney, Joanne. “Battle Dressed: Clothing the Criminal, or the Horror of the ‘Hoodie’ in Britain.” Fashion and War in Popular Culture, edited by Denise N. Rall, Intellect Books, 2014, pp. 127-138.

Uhlirova, Marketa, editor. If Looks Could Kill Cinemas Images of Fashion, Crime and Violence. London, Keonig Books.

Valverde, Mariana. “The Love of Finery: Fashion and The Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-Century Social Discourse.” Victorian Studies, vol. 32, no. 2, 1989, pp. 169-88.

Van den Heuvel, Dinie, and Anne-Carine Oskarsen. “‘Hidden Treasures’: Garments Used for Smuggling and for the Concealment of Valuables, 1900-60,” Fashion Theory, vol. 18, no. 4, 2014, pp. 385-398.

Werner, Alex, editor. Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die. London, Ebury Press, 2014.

Woodyard, Chris. “The Woman in Black – Victorian Mourning as Criminal Disguise.” Haunted Ohio, March 25, 2017,

Young, Linda. “The Experience of Convictism: Five Pieces of Convict Clothing from Western Australia.” Costume, vol. 22, no. 1, 1988, pp. 70-84.

Yusuf, Nilgin. “Caught on Camera: The Fashioned Body and The Criminal Body.” Fashion Media: Past and Present, edited by Djurdja Bartlett et al., Bloomsbury Education, 2013, pp. 96-108.

Yusuf, Nilgin. “On the Outside, Looking In: The Iconography of the Outsider in Contemporary Fashion.” Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, vol. 4, no. 2, 2006, pp. 200-207.